Amber- Romper

I adore knitted photography props for newborns. They are such an easy way to introduce texture and feeling to a set up.

This is the Amber Romper. It is knit using a soft DK weight fiber and features a gorgeous "autumn leaves" motif on the bodice. I hope that this piece will be a great way for you transition from summer to fall. Think of closing the chapter on hot summer days and prepping yourself for the first changes of autumn.

This pattern is only available in the newborn size. It is intended to fit babies up to ten pounds. This is standard within the prop world for newborn photography. However, you are more than welcome to play with sizing as you wish.

As of today this pattern is only available for the romper. Romper is knit flat and requires some sewing. It is also beneficial to know how to single crochet for the ties.

Eventually, I will add in the pattern notes for Amber's Bonnet. Please let me know if you'd like to see those notes as well by leaving a comment below.

"Amber"

*Designed by SofiaSofisticates**

Materials:

72 yard of DK weight yarn (I used 25 grams of Berroco's Ultra Alpaca Light)

Needles/Hook:

US 6 straight needles

"J" hook for making ties

Tapestry Needle for seaming sides of romper

Size:

True Newborn or 7lbs-10lbs (typically 15days and under)

Guage:

5sts x 6 rows in stockinette= 1"

Abbreviations:

• CO- Cast On

• BO- Bind Off

• RS- Right Side

• WS- Wrong Side

• STS- Stitches

• K- Knit

• P- Purl

• YO- Yarn Over

• SSK- Slip Slip Knit

• K2Tog- Knit 2 stitches together

• S2KP2- Slip 2 stitches, knit 1, pass two slipped stitches over " How to work S2KP2 (or SK2, K1, P2sso) - Centered double decrease Slip two stitches together as if to knit, knit one stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the stitch you just knit. This results in a centered double decrease. "

• SL1- Sip one stitch purlwise

• M1R- Make 1 right

• M1L- Make 1 left

• K2tog tbl- Knit two together through back loop

• 1x1 ribbing- k1, p1

BODICE (lace work)

CO 22 sts using long tail method

R1: (WS) Knit

R2: (RS) sl1, k21

R3: Knit all

R4: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k18, m1l, k2 ***24sts***

R5: (WS) sl1, k23

R6: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k20, m1l, k2 ***26sts***

R7: sl1, k1, p22. k2

R8: (RS) sl1, k4, k2tog, p2, yo, k1,yo,p2, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2, yo, k3 ***stitch count will remain at 26 sts***

R9: (WS) sl1, k1,p2, k2, p7, k2, p3, k2, p4, k2

R10: (RS) sl1, k3, k2tog, p2, (k1, yo) twice, k1, p2, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, k3

R11: sl1, k1, p3, k2, (p5, k2) twice, p3, k2

R12: (RS) sl1, k2, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2, k2 yo, k3

R13: sl1, k1, p4, k2, p3, k2, p7, k2, p2, k2

R14: (RS) sl1, k1, k2tog, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, s2kp2, p2, k3, yo, k3

R15: sl1, k1, p5, k2, p1, k2, p9, k2, p1, k2

R16: (RS) sl1, k2, yo, p2, ssk, k5, k2tog, p2, yo, k1, yo, p2, ssk, k5

R17: sl1, k1, p4, k2, p3, k2, p7, k2, p2, k2

R18: (RS) sl1, k2, yo, k1, p2, ssk, k3, k2tog, p2, (k1,yo)twice, k1, p2, ssk, k4

R19: sl1, k1, p3, k2, (p5, k2) twice, p3, k2

R20: (RS) sl1, k2, yo, k2, p2, ssk, k1, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p2, ssk, k3

R21: sl1, k1, p2, k2, p7, k2, p3, k2, p4, k2

R22: (RS) sl1, k2, yo, k3, p2, s2kp2, p2, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p2, ssk, k2

R23: sl1, k1, p1, k2, p9, k2, p1, k2, p5, k2

Rows 24- 39: repeat rows 8-23

R40: (RS) sl1, (k1, p1) 12 times, k1

R41: (WS) sl1, (k1, p1) 12 times, k1

Setting up for Decrease and shaping of leg holes:

Work in stockinette stitch (knit right side rows/purl wrong side rows) for 2 inches. Remember to slip the first stitch of each row. End on wrong side.

Decrease to leg shaping:

R1: (RS) sl1, k2, ssk, k16, k2tog tbl, k3 ***24sts***

R2: (and all wrong side rows) sl1, purl to end of row

R3: (RS) sl1, k2, ssk, k14, k2tog tbl, k3 ***22sts***

R5: (RS) sl1, k2, ssk, k12, k2tog tbl, k3 ***20sts***

R7: (RS) sl1, k2, ssk, k10, k2tog tbl, k3 ***18sts***

R9: (RS) sl1, k2, ssk, k8, k2tog tbl, k3 ***16sts***

R11: (RS) sl1, k2, ssk, k6, k2tog tbl, k3 ***14sts***

R12: (WS) sl1, purl to end of row

Leg Shaping (crotch area):

Work in stockinette stitch for one inch.

Increase for Back:

R1: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k10, m1l, k2 ***16sts***

R2: (and all wrong side rows to follow) sl1, purl to end of row

R3: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k12, m1l, k2 ***18sts***

R5: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k14, m1l, k2 ***20sts***

R7: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k16, m1l, k2 ***22sts***

R9: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k18 m1l, k2 ***24sts***

R11: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k20, m1l, k2 ***26sts***

R13: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k22, m1l, k2 ***28sts***

R15: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k24, m1l, k2 ***30sts***

R17: (RS) sl1, k1, m1r, k26, m1l, k2 ***32sts***

R18: (WS) sl1, purl to end of row

Finishing the Back:

Remembering to slip the first stitch of each row, continue to work in stockinette for 2 inches. Then, work in 1x1 ribbing for 1.5 inches. This creates a nice and structured look to the back of waist as well as helping to hide diaper.

Construction:

Now that your romper is knit, you are ready to seam the sides. Fold romper (inside out) so that the front and back leg areas match up. You should have 3" openings for the legs. Back side should measure 6" from waist band to the bottom. Using a darling needle sew up sides neatly. Weave in all ends and flip romper right side out.

Ties:

Using your "J" hook chain 50. This creates the tie for the right side.

Holding your romper right side (lacework) facing you, attach the tie to the top right

hand corner. Work across the top of bodice by single crocheting til you get to the top left corner. Then, chain 50 matching the first tie. I tied a knot on the end of each tie for extra durability and detail.

The single crochet should look nice and neat and be placed on top of the original cast on.